2009-11-13

Underexpose?

In a recent discussion about photos made during the "magic hour" (just before and just after sunrise/sunset) on PicasaWeb, a friendly friend :) sent me a link to a video tutorial on "How to take perfect sunsets" (link goes to youtube). In short, the friendly person in the videos says that, in order to get vibrant colors for sunset, you should underexpose.

Where does it come from? Jeffrey Friedl examined the problem of decreasing saturation with increasing brightness in another excellent technical article on his blog. But if you're shooting raw and use digital processing, as long as you make a proper exposure (that is: don't blow out the highlights!) and expose to the right, you will most likely get a better result if you expose your sunsets normally and correct them in post.

Just following the exposure recommendation of my camera, I get a "close to perfect" exposure in this scene:


As shot (FinePix S5Pro, 10s @ ISO 100; f/11, 24 mm DX)

HistogramAs you can see - the shadows are partly blocked, OK, but the important thing is: the highlights are not clipping. The red channel goes all the way to the right. It's simply sweet what the S5pro did here in Aperture priority mode.

And we're digital... we can always make a scene darker or brighter... the problem is: if you make the shadows brighter, there will be noise. But if you make the lights darker (just remember: only as long as they're not blown out), there is no such problem, because there's more detail data in the lights (the explanation for that is in one of the links in this older post here). So, from this very good exposure, we can easily adjust the scene to match the vibrant colors so that they're more like what we actually saw that moment after sunset.

Please look at the smooth color transition in the sky. There's not the slightest hint of color banding (blocky artifacts, sometimes also called posterization), the gradient is smooth as silk even in the areas where the sky is pretty dark now (any artifacts you see are purely from downsizing and JPEG compression):


Post processed (FinePix S5Pro, 10s @ ISO 100; f/11, 24 mm DX)

LR Basic adjustments panelAll the adjustments have been made on Lightrooms "Basic" panel as you can see on the right. The most important thing to notice is that the Saturation and Vibrance have not been increased! The beautiful red glow of the post-sunset sky came back automatically with the exposure compensation that I applied after the fact in Lightroom.

I added a lot of Fill Light to compensate for the hefty -1.5 exposure compensation to bring back just the tiniest idea of some of the shadow detail in the sand. Had I dialed in that -1.5 exposure compensation on scene, there would be no shadow detail left in that area, and all I'd get would be some grainy noise. This scene is not the best example for that, I admit it... :-)

If there's one conclusion that I can draw from this it would be, once more: shoot raw! :-) But nevertheless, I believe that the same adjustments would yield in similar results when used on a properly exposed JPEG.

5 comments:

  1. This is really helpful. It's cool that you do not even need to adjust vibrance and saturtion to get these beautiful colors. Now I can avoid the posterization and noise problems I always had for sunset pictures. Thanks so much! ^_^
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  2. Hi Alexander.

    First of all, I am glad you found the Bruce Barnbaum post at my blog of interest.
    Next; this friendly friend of yours probably thinks that the LCD display shows the final outcome of a photograph and knows little about what actually happens in a camera when an exposure is made. There are countless of people how thinks like him too...unfortuneately.
    Personally, I pay little attention to the actual representation of an image on the LCD.
    I am only interested in how the brightness/RGB histogram looks like. Expose to the right as far as possible without blowing the highlights and reduce the exposure in the RAW-converter gives you the best technical result, regarding exposure...and that is a fact.

    I don`t know if you know about this; but, when shooting RAW, try to reduce the in-camera contrast to a low value. As the in-camera contrast is for JPEG-representation (and not RAW data) this will further allow you to make even longer exposures before the highlights blow out. Like exposure, you can reset the contrast in your RAW-converter later on.
    I`ve tested this (as so many others) and it works fine. On my 5D I use noise reduction in post-processing in max. 10% of all images taken and this technique gives even more to work with in the shadows and color tones in general.

    If you haven`t tried it; give it a try and then decide if it has any value to your work.
    I just bought myself a 5D Mark II and the in-camera redution was one of the first things I did after turning on the camera for the first time :-)
    I even know some photographers that also lower the in-camera saturation for this purpose as well. But, for me, reduction of contrast already gives me what I need and even my large prints suffer no signs of noise artifacts so far.

    Have a wonderful evening.

    Best wishes
    Seung Kye
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  3. Thanks Seung Kye once more. Actually, I've covered that aspect in my blog before. :-)
    http://blog.alex-kunz.de/2009/01/raw-dilemma-and-why-i-keep-shooting-raw.html
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  4. I seemed to have missed that post, my friend.
    Sorry ;-)

    Seung Kye
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  5. No need to say sorry, I'm beginning to lose track of all these posts myself. ;-)
    ReplyDelete